Q: How does an air conditioning system actually work to cool the air in my home?

A: An air conditioning system consists of 2 parts: an outdoor unit (where liquid refrigerant is contained) and an indoor coil (where the refrigerant is pumped into). As the air moves across the air conditioning coil (usually located on top of the furnace), the refrigerant removes the heat from the air as well as the moisture by condensing it on the cold surface of the coil. In this way, an air conditioner not only cools but also dehumidifies the air. Virtually any system can have air conditioning hooked up to it provided that it is a forced air system. In cases where there is not forced air heating or a duct system, we can use "split" systems to cool an entire home or small business.

Q: My thermostat is equipped with a two position setting for the fan, "automatic" and "on". Where should I set it?

A: The two positions are usually used in conjunction with a central air cleaning system. The normal setting is on "automatic" and the fan's cycle will be controlled by the temperature in the room. However, if your home is equipped with an air cleaner (media or electronic) or you wish to keep a continuous flow of air, switch the setting to "on". Remember, central air cleaning devices only work when the furnace is circulating air. If you wish to get the most from your air cleaner, you should keep the setting to "on".

Q: Do I need to get my furnace cleaned every year?

A: Naturally, you would expect a heating contractor to recommend an annual furnace cleaning as we do. But we do so for a number of reasons. A cleaning means that your furnace will operate more efficiently, getting more heat for your fuel dollar. More importantly, however, the cleaning also includes a thorough safety check of the entire unit for cracked or defective/damaged parts. This annual maintenance check will assure you a carbon monoxide free winter. An annual cleaning is also recommended by all manufacturers as well as utilities (ie: RG&E, NYSEG, etc.)

Q: How often should I change the standard throw-away 1" filter on my furnace?

A: You should change your standard 1" furnace filter every 6-8 weeks. Believe it or not, a filter actually becomes more efficient as it get dirtier…up to a point. After peak efficiency is reached, the efficiency drops again. Make sure to inspect the filter and use your own judgment. Don't let the filter get "clogged" as this can cut down on the efficiency and/or cause damage to the unit.

Q: How efficient is my standard 1" throw-away filter as far as how much it will remove from the air?

A: A standard 1" throw-away furnace filter is between 5-10% particle efficient. This means that across the particle size spectrum, these filters will only trap about 5-10% of what passes through them. You can improve the efficiency of the filtration of your heating and/or cooling system by upgrading to either a media or electronic style filter. Their particle removal efficiencies are 60-65% and 90-99.98%, respectively and either is quite an improvement over standard 1" filtration capabilities. By doing an upgrade like this, you will also cut down on maintenance costs on the system as dirty systems are the #1 cause for malfunction. This will also boost the efficiency of the system as the heat and cooling transfer coils will be able to operate with the least amount of resistance.

Q: Why should I have my ducts, air conditioning coil, and heat transfer coil cleaned?

A: Duct cleaning is usually performed on houses over 10 years old where people living in the home are experiencing problems with dust, allergies, general congestion, and/or odors. By cleaning out the duct system we get rid of unwanted dust and debris as well as many viruses, bacteria, germs, mold spores, and nasty odors. Also, clogged ducts are cleared which can mean getting more heat/cooling to parts of your home that were not getting enough before.
Also, by having the air conditioning coil and heating coil cleaned, top efficiency is restored to the system. Just to give you an idea…1/40" thick of dust (about the thickness of a sandwich wrap) on a heating or cooling coil results in a decrease in efficiency of 21 percent for the entire system. (EPA study) This decrease in efficiency results in a 21% higher cost of operation to you.

Q: I'm not sure what the proper humidity setting for my humidifier is?

A: We recommend setting the dial at 35%. You may want to raise or lower it slightly, however, because every home is different. Increase the humidity setting until you see a small accumulation of water droplets on your windows. When this occurs, stop raising the level and lower it just a touch. At this time, the proper humidity level for your home has been reached.

Q: Why is my humidifier hooked up to hot water?

A: Most humidifiers are hooked up to a cold water source but in certain situations where more humidity is required or the water supply is very mineral rich , the manufacturer recommends hooking up to warm/hot water. This will automatically increase the humidification capacity of the unit and help to prevent annoying mineral buildup in the unit which is the leading cause of malfunction.

Q: I have trouble getting even amounts of heat/cooling to certain parts of my house. How can I get more heat/cooling to the upstairs/downstairs of my home?

A: Adjust the louvers inside the registers on the wall or floor in the room where too much heat/cooling is present so that the registers are partially closed. For example, to get more cooling upstairs during hot summer months, partially or fully close the registers downstairs to force more airflow to the upstairs registers.
Another possible solution is a furnace equipped with a variable speed blower motor. These furnaces are designed to overcome airflow problems in a home and will keep the airflow steady all over the home. These types of furnaces also use about 1/3 the electricity of a standard furnace and can save considerable amounts of money in operating costs.

Taking your comfort to new heights!!